Lacrosse Stringing tends to be a topic that is hard to grasp for beginners who are first stringing a lacrosse head. To simplify it for players, we broke down the process into a few quick article outlined below. I highly suggest any player who is new to stringing to read these articles before continuing the following lacrosse stringing tutorial. Though it may seem overwhelming at first, it will only get easier as you practice and eventually you will become an expert on the subject.
How to string a Lacrosse Stick
Lacrosse Stringing Materials
- Lacrosse Head
- Sidewall String
- Shooting Strings
- Lacrosse Mesh
- Stringing Tools
Lacrosse String Length
- Lacrosse Top String Length – 33-36 Inches
- Lacrosse Sidewall Length – 22-24 Inches
- Lacrosse Bottom String Length – 6-8 Inches
- Lacrosse Shooting Strings Needed: 1-3 Person Preference
Lacrosse Top String Styles
Stringing a lacrosse head string can be difficult for starters, but luckily we have provided step by step tutorials for you to practice with. The two lacrosse top strings we recommend for new stringers are the 9 Diamond Top String and the Hidden 9 Diamond Top String. If you would like to explore other options you can find all of our top string articles here lacrosse top strings. Pick a top string below and follow the tutorial in a new window. When your finished, close the window and head to the next lacrosse stick stringing section.
9 Diamond Top String
The regular 9 Diamond Top String will be good for any players who are looking for a medium/low lacrosse pocket.
9 Diamond Hidden Top String
The 9 Diamond Hidden Top String allows the mesh to float at the top, widening the channel and allowing the ball to sit higher. Head to one of those tutorials then follow the link back after completing.
How To String A Lacrosse Head Sidewall
Time needed: 1 hour.
Prior to stringing your lacrosse head, make sure that you have visited our lacrosse stringing knot tutorials to familiarize yourself with the choices. When stringing a lacrosse head sidewall, start off by preparing your nylon sidewall string by tying a double overhand lacrosse knot. Personally, I prefer to string both sides of my lacrosse head at the same time. If you’re following this tutorial, I suggest you do the same. Stringing both sides of the lacrosse head at the same time is beneficial for many reasons such as: Stringing your sidewalls separately can mean different tensions that you’ll have to correct later. Your more prone to making mistakes on one of the sidewalls when you string them separately. The channel of your lacrosse stick is more likely to be uneven.
- Attach Lacrosse Mesh to the Sidewall of Lacrosse Head
The size of the sidewall hole on the lacrosse head determines how many loops I do. A really big sidewall hole needs a lot of loops so the knot doesn’t pass through. I prefer to get two loops on my starting knot to ensure that the knot won’t slip through the hole. On this Epoch Prequel, I only utilized one loop compared to other heads with bigger holes like an STX Surgeon where I usually do two.
- Tying your first lacrosse sidewall knot, the anchor knot
The Anchor Knot is designed to pull the lacrosse mesh down while holding it against the inside of the lacrosse hole. If you’re more advanced at stringing lacrosse sticks then you can use a knotted SI, or an inside-out Knotted SI, which will have a similar effect. I’d recommend that beginners start by trying Anchor Knots and then moving on from there.
- Pull your nylon lacrosse string tight to ensure a locked knot!
- Skip a hole and tie another anchor knot
The purpose of skipping holes in the lacrosse sidewall is to pull the mesh down for a tighter effect in certain areas.
- Conceptualizing and Planning Your Pocket
Check your sidewalls before proceeding to make sure you haven’t made any mistakes! I circled the holes that you should have skipped in blue, so it should be easy to find any mistakes below. The lacrosse player I’m stringing this head for plays attack and loves having the ball. He also prefers a mid/high pocket with a decent amount of ball security for dodges. His pockets usually have a large amount of hold and ball security without whip because of this pattern. For this, I want the pocket to sit at its natural low point in this lacrosse head. This point is in-between the two red lines. I also want the pocket to be angled forward so that the ball sits right under the shooters, but doesn’t tug or hit off them. Instead, I want the ball to roll off them. Proceeding from the shooters I won’t double up on the sidewall. I’d rather strategically place my knots for superior performance.
- Anchoring the Lacrosse Mesh Down and Creating a Tighter Channel
- Tie a Single Lacrosse Knot
- Tie two more Singles Followed by a Knot then Skip a hole and Knot Again
- Don’t Forget The Other Side of the Lacrosse Head!
The Circle in blue provides a reference point of where you should have left off before flipping your head over. The circle in red provides the reference to where we just strung the one side too. You can start to see what we wanted to happen by the illustration of the blue arrow. Our pocket seems to be formed and big enough to start planning the decline of the pocket.
- Finishing the Sidewall Pattern of your Lacrosse Head!
Skipping each one of those holes in the sidewall of the lacrosse head allowed the pocket to come to a natural end.
Don’t forget, if you’re using StringKing Performance Mesh or Otter Mesh by Epoch Lacrosse then you have to use a shooting string as your bottom string. If you don’t then you can ruin your mesh and you’ll have to replace it. Sidewall creates too much friction on those meshes and will rip through.
The bottom string on a lacrosse head should be used to quickly adjust your pocket on the fly. If your stick bags out before a game or is throwing low then, most likely you will want to tighten it up. On the other hand, if your pocket is throwing high or shrunk up due to the heat then you might want to loosen it.